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Press and Stories
The mysterious excursion to Dr. Canoche's Mausoleum
By Adriana López Martínez @Wayumi_Expediciones
By Adriana López Martínez – @Wayumi_Expediciones
Tucked into the northern slopes of El Ávila National Park, near the village of Galipán, lies one of Venezuela’s most intriguing hiking routes: the Mausoleum of Dr. Knoche. This trail blends natural beauty with eerie legend, making it a must-visit for adventurers and history lovers alike.
To reach it, we descend by rustic vehicle toward La Guaira, arriving at the sector known as La Alpargata. From there, a two-hour hike begins through the lush, humid forest—an immersive experience in the biodiversity of Waraira Repano.
🧬 Who Was Dr. Knoche?
Gottfried Knoche was a German-born surgeon who arrived in Venezuela in the 1840s to serve the local German-speaking community. After validating his credentials at the Central University of Venezuela, he settled in La Guaira, where he founded the San Juan de Dios Hospital and helped combat the cholera epidemic of the 1840s—often treating patients free of charge.
Knoche was also a Latin professor and Brazil’s vice-consul. But it was his excursions to Galipán that captured his heart. The misty climate and dense vegetation reminded him of Germany’s Black Forest. He purchased a hillside estate at 1000 meters above sea level, naming it Buena Vista. Originally a vacation home, it became the family residence, hosting scientists and botanists drawn to the region’s rich flora.
🧪 Science, Obsession, and the Macabre
Dr. Knoche is best known for developing a chemical embalming formula using aluminum chloride. Unlike traditional methods, his technique preserved bodies without removing internal organs—injecting the solution directly into the jugular vein.
He experimented on unclaimed corpses from the hospital, many of them casualties of Venezuela’s Federal War. Legend says one body fell off a mule en route to Buena Vista, and a replica now marks the trail.
Knoche’s obsession grew: he embalmed his own family members, two dogs, and even a soldier who guarded the house. He left instructions to be embalmed himself, and his body was displayed in the family mausoleum—still standing today. Inside, six marble-covered niches with thick glass reveal the preserved faces and torsos of the mummies.
🏺 A Global Fascination with Death
At the time, Europe was captivated by Egypt’s pyramids and the mystique of mummification. Looted mummies were sold as magical relics. Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein had just been published, and spiritualism was on the rise. The world was exploring the soul, the afterlife, and the boundaries of science.
Knoche’s work reached Caracas society. The family of journalist Tomás Lander asked him to embalm a deceased relative, whose body was displayed for 40 years before being buried at the request of President Guzmán Blanco. Another president, Francisco Linares Alcántara, is also rumored to have been a client. Only Knoche’s wife escaped the fate—returning to Germany, once again citing the local climate.
🏚️ What Remains Today
Only the ruins of the mausoleum and a small laboratory remain. After the family’s death, the estate was abandoned. Visitors claimed the original mummies were dismembered across the grounds. Buena Vista was vandalized—some seeking Knoche’s formula, others performing occult rituals. Eventually, the remains were cast into the sea, perhaps by someone hoping to bring peace to the souls of the departed. Today, replicas stand in their place.
Death remains a taboo in Venezuelan culture, and Knoche’s scientific legacy is forever cloaked in mystery.
🌿 A Refreshing End to the Journey
The hike ends with a dip in a nearby waterfall, surrounded by local restaurants and cozy inns—perfect for a weekend escape. This route is highly recommended for its natural beauty, historical intrigue, and the unforgettable story of Dr. Knoche.
📲 For more excursions and videos, follow @Wayumi_Expediciones on Instagram.
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An enchanted route from Caracas to Altos Mirandinos
Before the oil boom there was a project
railwayman who now travels to the past
Adriana López Martínez
Special Contributor for El Universal
I love sharing experiences that enrich my surroundings, help shape cultural identity, and restore faith in our country. With that passion, I boarded a railcar for a beautiful journey into the past.
Before the oil boom, Venezuela had a railway project designed to connect its territory. One of its routes carried Caracas locals to the Altos Mirandinos, with its final stop at El Encanto station. It served both as a transport line for goods and a getaway for tourists seeking cooler climates. Departing from Antímano, we began a 12-kilometer descent along a rocky slope parallel to a gas pipeline. Hills and valleys framed the landscape. At the end of the descent, we entered a lush jungle forest teeming with species—a truly “enchanted” forest.
We reached the ruins of the first railcar, where we paused for a snack and photos. Then came the challenge of crossing several bridges, the first towering 50 meters high—a feat requiring nerves of steel. Further ahead, we encountered the first tunnel. Each one was arch-shaped, about 40 meters long, carved directly into the mountain.
Every train has its story, and this one is no exception. As we passed through the tunnels, I recalled a dramatic event from 1963—straight out of a Wild West film—when guerrilla fighters attacked the train in search of weapons. The result: five guards killed, civilians wounded, and several communist deputies arrested.
At the ruins of the main station, we found a locomotive bearing the weight of multiple governments and failed restoration attempts. After lunch, we continued through scattered railcar remains, evoking scenes from silent cinema. After the final bridge, we began a climb through trees and streams. With guidance from our tour leaders, the ascent took just 25 minutes, ending at a small village where transportation awaited us.
This route is an excellent option that blends trekking, history, and adrenaline—a place that still holds the same charm that once drew tourists from another era.
For more details and videos of this and other excursions, visit my Instagram account:
Instagram @Wayumi_Expediciones
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